Malawi

March 27 - we leave Tanzania and enter Malawi.

A short distance that evening to a campsite not far from Lake Malawi and an instant crowd of on-lookers. Malawi is one of Africa's poorer countries and over-population is a problem. Again children have their hands out demanding money. In general, though, the people seem gentle and friendly.

Along the shore of Lake Malawi the agriculture changed again, now to rice. The fields are worked by hand or with plows pulled by oxen.

Some interesting birds along the way...

...this one I'd call a black-winged redbird - it's appearance, behaviour and habitat, apart from the red body and black wings, was just like our red-winged blackbirds in Canada.

...and this poor bird has an enormously long tail - it can almost hover and presents a unique sight in flight as in the inset.

The lake is also a source of fish, as attested by this fishing village...

...with its fleet of hand-crafted fishing canoes.

Here, we are approaching Chitimba Beach at the bay in the background.

The rest day at Chitimba Beach truly was rest. No internet. No electricity except for a few hours in the afternoon when they turned on the generator. We camped on the beach - seen here in the morning just before a three-hour heavy rain...

But then it cleared to a beautiful day... nice sand beach, clean water in the lake, comfortable temperature.

Better than a cold shower any day.

Onward to Lilongwe - pouring rain in the morning - and we climbed away from the lake and into the hills. Steep hills - eight hours in the saddle with many steep climbs and descents. Amazing where you find cattle - this was a steep road with even steeper wooded and rock slopes on either side.

This took us through forest that was rather reminiscent of northern Ontario. It is being cut at least partly for pulp and being reforested in part with pine which we understand not to be native to this region.

Monday morning was mist, then Scotch mist, then drizzle and riding in cloud until we climbed and finally started to see glimpses of sunlight and this rainbow effect. Late morning and afternoon were dry, but it was another eight hours in the saddle.

Tuesday and Wednesday were easier rides, more open countryside, and shallower climbs and descents. Tuesday we arrived in Kasungu early afternoon which was very welcome as it was early enough to dry the wet stuff. Previous days, the sun was already down too far to dry anything by the time we got into camp.

As we continue south, we are into corn and tobacco production

One of our lunch stops was beside these poinsetta bushes.

By appearance, Malawi has seen better days. Settlements along the road are lined with buildings that have obviously seen better days - many appear abandoned and in general there is an appearance of decline. At curves in the road, there are posts on which there once were guard rails. But where are the guard rails? It is as if they have been deliberately removed perhaps for the value of the metal. Houses are basic, mostly one or two room and they aren't hooked up to electricity.

The roadside is also kept trim by hand.

Monday night campsite was on a school playing field where we had an enthusiastic group of local people with this masked character dancing and stirring up the kids...

...while the children chant and clap hands.

Bicycles are used as taxis and in this case, it looks like husband, wife, child and several chickens (wife is holding them in her right hand) on their way to market.

April 2nd, we arrived in Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, a modern looking city judging from what we cycled past on our way to the camp site. April 3rd is a rest day, then we leave Malawi and enter Zambia, headed for Lusaka.