Sunday, April 20, 2008

Mack Air - a Gem of an Airline

Maun is the jumping-off spot for the Okavango Delta. Our flight was on a Cessna Caravan operated by Mack Air (the photo is from the company notice-board), a Maun-based carrier that operates about a dozen airplanes, the Caravan being the largest.



I have to comment on Mack Air. These days, there are all sorts of concerns for the safety record of African airlines, small air-taxi operators, and Cessna Caravans (icing problems). The fact is that on balance, no other mode of transport can match aviation for safety. In recent years, safety management has become the focus as we try to eliminate the hazards that continue to show up as causes of accidents. Company safety culture is looked at as part of the regular oversight by Transport Canada inspectors during audits, and it is examined in the event of an investigation into a mishap. The trick is to try to get everbody even remotely connected to aircraft operations in a company to embrace safety concepts in his or her everyday way of working. A good safety culture usually reflects well on management style, employee commitment and competence, and on overall operational efficiency and safety.

Enough of the lecture. Mack Air seemed to be a gleaming gem by all those standards. The airplane was pristine. The flight departed on time - early in fact. The three of us were the only passengers and the pilot gave us an informative safety briefing. During the flight, the pilot told us about their engine maintenance programme, including health and trend monitoring with regular consultation with the manufacturer and rigid adherence to their recommendations. He explained various measures they took to avoid unecessary engine cycles and stresses. With a fleet of single-engine airplanes, their programmes have resulted in the greatest single threat to airborne safety being vultures and storks.


When the flight was booked, we were told to go and pay at the airline's office when we got to Maun. On the ground, their ground staff took all the bags and carried them across the road to their office. The office staff told us that our pilot was the owner of the company and proceeded to tell us how wonderful a man he was, how great the company was, how much they enjoyed their co-workers. The office was clean and neat. They went out of their way to look after us, and one commented that that was just the way they did their business.


From our brief glimpse of Mack Air, their safety culture appeared pretty hard to beat. If I'm back in Botswana, I'll be looking to them to fly me around. If they read this, I hope they don't become complacent.


Before we got flying, we watched this pristine South-African-registered DC-4 depart. I had to put in the photo for aviation buffs.



During the flight to Maun, we flew across the Chobe Park. The road is a dirt road from Kasane to Maun, not always passable, and you need four-wheel drive.



From 8500 feet and a low-resolution picture on the web, it's hard to see the elephants, but they are at this watering hole.




This year is wetter than usual and we're seeing more watering holes than normal. You can see the animal tracks from miles around to this one.





This photo shows water in a river. Apparently is has been several years since the last time that happened.





Approaching Maun, we overflew part of the Okavango Delta. The Okavango flows from Angola into Botswana where the water basically empties into desert and dries up. More river flow (i.e., from rain in Angola) and the water is high. Ironically, high water means tall grass which means more to burn when the dry season comes, therefore a greater fire hazard.





The Okavango Delta has vast expanses of marsh land with islands here and there, accessible by the flat-bottom makoro boats that are poled through the grass. That's what we'll be doing for the next three days.


Botswana - Chobe National Park

Tuesday April 15 - We depart Victoria Falls for a short day - about 90 km - leaving Zambia and entering Botswana, the seventh country for the Tour. The destination was Kasane, at the northeast corner of Botswana near where Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, and Zimbabwe come together. That entailed a ferry trip and a lot of waiting to get across the Zambezi River.


The crossing is served by two ferries that can carry only one transport truck at a time plus one or two smaller vehicles which by my guess gives the border crossing a capacity of at most 8 transports an hour. And trucks are lined up for several kilometres on both sides of the border. You have to get your feet wet to get on.


Botswana has vast expanses of wilderness that are home to significant numbers of animals and birds. We were able to get on a sunset cruise on the Chobe River to observe wildlife along the edge of Chobe National Park, one of Botswana's wildlife reserves, greeted early on by this silhouette of an elephant on the shore.


Another elephant demonstrated its swimming skills with a hitchhiking egret on its back...


...but hippopotamus can't swim...


...yet they spend all day in the water!


A late afternoon shower was illuminated by the setting sun giving us a nice rainbow...


...while a cormorant was drying its wings on the other side of the boat.


Along with one of our fellow riders, Eugene Garver from Minneapolis, we took four days off from cycling to see some more of Botswana's wildlife starting on Wednesday morning with a three-hour excursion by land rover in Chobe National Park.

The highlight was these lion on the riverbank, drinking as if it's a long time between water stops.

Amongst other sightings was this impala...


...and this one with a hitchhiker on its back...


...and mongooses (or is it mesgeese) digging ants out of the sandy soil. We had dozens of them around the campsite last night too.


Young baboons often cling to mom under her belly. This one is piggy-backing on her back.


This Redbilled Hornbill was back at the campsite.


We were back at the campsite at 0900 and now had to figure out how to get to Maun. The last bus of the day is at 0800 and we didn't want to spend all day in Kasane. The people at Thebe River Safari (the operators of the campsite) were terrific, found us a flight leaving at 1230, and took us out to the airport at 1100.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Victoria Falls

Sunday-Monday April 13-14 - two rest days at Livingstone and Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls is on the Zambezi River on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.

We viewed it from the Zambian side on Sunday. At the entry to the park is a monument to Dr. Livingstone.


It's a short walk to the edge of the gorge where we got our first look at part of the falls...


...and got evidence that we were there.


The mist from the falls brings entirely new meaning to the word 'mist' - it was a torrential downpour. We'd been warned that raincoats, which are available for rent, wouldn't keep us or especially our cameras dry so we rented a dry pack and put cameras and everything else in it. That was good advice - we got absolutely soaked but our stuff stayed dry.

If Ursula looks like she's soaked in this photo, it's because she is. The Zambia to Zimbabwe bridge in the background.


This photo tries to show the intensity of the mist falling and obscuring the Falls directly behind.


Getting a look at the entire falls was impossible - the mist made it impossible to see the complete falls, only bits at a time and perhaps for only a few fleeting seconds.


Afterwards, we walked up a short trail beside the river. The river was high and the current strong from recent rains. About 200 metres above the Falls was this calmer bay in which people enjoyed a swim. Can you imagine Parks Canada allowing people into the water that close to Niagara Falls?


We then went to the Zambesi Sun Hotel for lunch and found zebra wandering the grounds keeping the grass short.


They have a large baboon population to the point of being a menace, this one wondering how to climb a tree.


There was an immature albino that reminded us of the wormy guy in Lord of the Rings.


At sunset, we walked down to the bridge that connects Zambia and Zimbabwe. An entry visa for Canadians is 60 USD (anybody else is 20 USD - we don't know what Canada has done deserve that) so we didn't consider crossing; rather we satisfied ourselves with views of the Falls on the one side...


...and the gorge...


...and sunset on the other.


We splurged on Monday and took a helicopter trip into the gorge and over the Falls. We'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Look at the shear volume of water going over the Falls - the largest volume in the world. The bends in the gorge indicate previous locations of the Falls as the softer rock has been eroded over the eons.










Lusaka to Livingstone

Thursday April 10 to Saturday April 12 - Three riding days from Lusaka to Livingstone - they say that the total of 495 km makes this the longest three-day distance of the Tour d'Afrique although my arithmetic says it is about the same as the first three days last week out of Lilongwe.

Either way, it's a lot of time in the saddle, even with a favourable wind and relatively flat terrain. The best we did on Saturday's 160-km stretch was 6:45 'in-motion' and a total time (including lunch, a coke stop, and very few photos) of 8 hours. That's about as fast as we've been. Other days may have shorter distances but more hills, so slower and just as long and fatiguing.

Day after day like that is what has become really exhausting. One rest day in six (that is about the average) just isn't enough for our old bodies to fully recover, so occasionally we'll ride only half the day and hitch a ride on the lunch truck - that's what we did on Friday.

Thursday we had a 12-km convoy through Lusaka and its rush-hour traffic, here seen approaching a rather striking pedestrian bridge arrangement.


There is a very energetic film crew accompanying the Tour this year. Benny and Brian clambered up the pedestrian overpass to get a vantage point for filming the convoy.


Benny is the leader of the crew, here on one of the support vehicles photographing me photographing him.



The third member of the film crew is Christian, here riding a rather unique bicycle that the crew built to give them a better perspective for filming - it is rather illustrative of the creative and innovative talent that they have, not to mention energy and athletic ability to ride it and move along far faster then we'll ever do. This bike elicits lots of attention and oohs and aahs from the local population when these guys ride through town.

Back to the departure from Lusaka - we mentioned before that it is more modern than most of where we've been - here we pass a shopping mall that could easily be found anywhere in the west.

AIDS is a major problem in many of the places through which we have passed. This sign was at the side of the main road as we approached the centre of Lusaka - we'll let it speak for itself. Maybe we could erect something similar on the subject of panhandlers and homeless street people in Toronto.

We headed south out of Lusaka, passing modern car dealerships, and then into the country.

About 50 km south was the town of Kafue which had a mix of industry and agriculture.

The Kafue river flows towards the Zambesi river. Although we are now in the dry season, we know that there has been flooding in the north of the Zambia, and the river here appears to be quite swollen.

We came across a national monument as we climbed westward out of the Kafue valley.

We were in the Munali Pass where Livingstone, travelling east from Angola to Mozambique, reportedly first saw the Kafue River.

His view must have been similar to this, looking back at where we'd been.

No road back then, and probably more difficult travelling than avoiding the washed out part of the road in the picture. The road was much worse than this nearer Livingstone. We saw them filling potholes with earth from the side of the road. Truck traffic in places had resorted to driving on the unpaved shoulder (either side of the road) for extended distances the road itself was so bad. On our bicycles, we could often pick our way through and avoid holes.

After going through the Munali Pass, we were on a plateau with a mix of farm land...

and forest...

We saw signs saying that there was also a nickel project. Zambia also has copper resources in the north.

This was the typical scenery for the three days... pleasant if nondescript and not much to disgtinguish it from many places in Canada or Europe.

Weather was sunny and we had colourful sunsets.

I was taking the sunset photo, this lady asked wtheir picture, so I did. The kids seemed rather in awe of the group of us pitching tents in a now-abandoned campground about a kilometer off the highway. I wasn't sure if they recognized themselves when I showed them the picture.


Sunrise the next morning was equally colourful and we had an audience to watch us pack up and ride off.


Our route paralleled a still-active railway track although I wouldn't count on the warning lights or guardsman to tell me if a train was coming.

We have both a doctor and a nurse on the support staff for this trip. Irmy Bush, the mother of Doctor Luke, participated as a rider in the Tour d'Afrique a couple of years ago but had to abandon when she contracted malaria. She has since become active in the fight against malaria and has personally raised money for mosquito netting. She rode on this segment of this year's Tour and brought 1500 mosquito nets for donation to specific aid organizations, here delivering 500 nets to World Vision in Choma.

North of Livingstone, we passed three Morris Oxfords driving north from South Africa or a charitable mission.

We finally got into Livingstone on Saturday afternoon. The main road curved and went over a hill in the middle of town and suddenly we had this view of mist rising from Victoria Falls, about 15 km away.

Two rest days here in Livingstone. As this is being written, we haven't yet visited the Falls, so this will be in the next blog.